|I'm at work, but I can check what ours are tonight when I get home. We have 2, and both work well (2 different brands.)|
Mine don't need a separate circuit...but where they are plugged have pretty low current draws from other things. Never tripped a circuit with either.
|I'm seriously looking at a new Mitsubishi cooling unit for the garage. Yeah, they're a bit pricy but are supposed to be über efficient, pretty small unit that mounts inside and very quiet.|
|12,000 to 15,000 BTUs is pretty much the limit for a regular 110 outlet (15 Amps) given a SEER of 10.0 to 12.00. It should have its own circuit, but if there's not much else on a circuit you'll probably be OK if you can keep unit to 1400 to 1500 watts. |
If you happen to have a 20Amp circuits you should be OK with headroom capacity of 600+ watts, but that's not extremely common. You need to look two places: Look at the outlet for a perpendicular line in the left side of the plug, that signifies that the outlet is 20Amp,
The second place is to look in the circuit breaker or fuse box for the rating of the protection. Just because the outlet is rated for 20Amps doesn't mean that someone didn't just replace one with the wrong rating, you need to look at the circuit box.
|Vance, we have the uit yiu are talking about. Called a "slim jim" and goes flat on the wall but it has a condenser utside. Works well. we had it for almost ten years now but is now leaking and can't use for more than a hour or two. The repair guy is coming early next week.|
Ron, you are way over my head! What is the usual amps for the outlets? Isn't is 110?
|110 is the Volts, both of those outlets are 110 Volts.|
After you go higher than 12,000 or 15,000 BTUs, they will be 220 Volt units which, unless you have a dedicated special circuit, won't be good for you.
Do you have a spot where a big unit was already plugged in or wired in?
|OK, home now.|
Mine are much smaller than 15,000 BTU's.
The livingroom one ( served living/dining and kitchen) is a GE and is 8,000 BTU. I am cheap and only ran it on Low thru the whole, hideous hot summer. The highest it got was 80F in the house - and that was when it was 100 degrees outside for weeks and never cooled at night. On LOW! So I can just imagine how cool it would have been on med or high. It's not new (maybe 6 yrs old?) and never had any issues.
The bedroom one is smaller, and is a Fedders 5000 BTU
http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadi ... 05F2A.html
That one I can tell is smaller and does not cool near as well as the GE.
|The Low/High (or Low/Med/High) setting is just the fan speed; it doesn't really affect how much cooling is done as the compressor part of the cooling system runs at a constant level whenever it's running. Unless you have a VERY expensive unit that utilizes variable compressor speed technology. The compressor uses the majority of the power of the unit.|
A difference would be if you changed the temperature setting to 80, causing the compressor to cycle on and off.
A larger unit might (**MIGHT**) be more efficient for you as it would be able to remove the humidity from the air more quickly and dry air is very easy to cool and makes you feel much more comfortable.
I say "might" because I don't know how to calculate the interaction between run time and comfort levels and all that. There are computer programs and an HVAC person can do the math for properly sizing BTUs. I assume their recommendations for sizing make it most efficient.
http://profmaster.blogspot.com/2007/12/ ... ation.html
(Note in case they don't show the conversion anywhere, in refrigeration "1 ton" equals 12,000 BTUs, 2 tons is 24,000 BTUs and so on.)
|First, what size is the room? 15000btu is more than I needed to cool the|
entire house at 2300 sqft. Second, the slim jim is leaking what? Condensed
water from humidity or the coolant in the unit? Most likely it's from the humidity
in the air. That should be a really easy fix. Personally I would borrow a dehumidifier from someone and see if you can resolve it that way. That way you
haven't invested a boatload to solve the wrong problem.
Sounds like your first problem is with moisture, and solving that
will go a long way to helping cool down the space.
There are aslo floor units now - pricey, but convenient. I'd still dehumidify first.
|Re : Ron's condenser comments - the Fedders one does cycle based on the setting (how much cooling desired)...so must have more of a "brain"|
|The setting of cold yes, but the blower is different. That is a different setting|
all together. They almost (except the cheapies and fedders isn't really) all have
settings for both. (blower and temp) I worked in a shop that repaired them actually.
|My new room at school has a Mitsubishi in it due to all of the computers . It seems to keep the room comfortable. It is on a inside wall so I don't know how it is vented. I have no idea what BTU it is. I never really noticed.|
|The slim jim units are mounted on a wall and there is a condenser outside. Tubes are run through the attic to the condenser and then water drains out onto the ground. Like central air only ventless as they say. The water dripping out should be oing down the tube and outside but I think its clogged somewhere causing it to back up and then leak out of the unit. It's not the usual small drip from the humidity.|
The room is 520 square feet, mostly windows facing the south - south west and catherdral ceiling. It gets sun ALL DAY and is hard to cool. The guy is coming to look at it tomorrow but no way am I going for a few grand when I can get a window unit. Maybe I can get a 10,ooo BTU?
|I call those "mini ductless split systems".|
I hope that it's just a clogged or split hose or something simple!
500 square feet should be able to be cooled by 10,000 or 12,000 pretty easily. But that depends on insulation and climate and such, and I'm no expert on it. Did you look at that HVAC estimator?
|I have several window units, most 6000 btu and the one in my room is 8000 btu. They all work fine, the one in my room is leaking in though no matter how much I tilt it back so that's a pain in the butt.|
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