A frame
She was a bit nervous of the height but with the offer of her favorite treat she did it first try. 
I only asked her to climb it twice as she was a bit nervous of the height and you have never seen such an uncoordinated scramble. 
My question is are we better to start off right at the bottom for a more controlled entry or am I better to let her have a bit of a run up. The instructor had her starting right at the base, so getting started was quite an effort. |
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| I never had an instructor want them to have to struggle up - I think its hard on their shoulders actually.
The newer way to start the A frame is at a lowered height (although my guys started out at full height and don't seem phased) Of course they each went through stages where they loved it/hated it in rotation  |
| It wasnt that she wanted her to struggle jus that she wanted some control.
She knows Tiggy from obedience, I think she had visions of Tiggy racing up the A frame and leaping off from a height. So start her off with a bit of a run up?? |
| definitely and if there isn't control, the Aframe is probably not the place to get it - it usually propels them. |
| I've taught Tiggy "slow" as a command so I'll give her a run up but ask her to slow if she goes to fast.
She usually slows  |
| I guess I don't know why you would want to slow her down? I usually am saying hurry up |
| Oh only if she's trying to take a flying leap from high up the A frame.
And also because she gets too excited and she's not the most coordinated dog you've ever met. She used to take the walk too fast and misplace her back feet and she nearly fell off backwards a couple of times. 
Dont need to use slow on the walk anymore she's sorted out her back feet. |
Sweetpea like to get to the top of the A Frame and then sit down right on the peak! She looks down on all the other dogs as if to say 'I'm the king of the castle' She has the instructor in fits of giggles she looks so silly!! I must take my camera this week!  |
Mim wrote: Oh only if she's trying to take a flying leap from high up the A frame.
And also because she gets too excited and she's not the most coordinated dog you've ever met. She used to take the walk too fast and misplace her back feet and she nearly fell off backwards a couple of times. Dont need to use slow on the walk anymore she's sorted out her back feet. Well Marley has and still does take falls off the dog walk - appparently according to my instructor she has no frear of falling off it anymore and will just go -
It has slowed her down and is one of the reasons I think we need a wider dog walk for large breed dogs |
kerry wrote: Well Marley has and still does take falls off the dog walk - appparently according to my instructor she has no frear of falling off it anymore and will just go -
It has slowed her down and is one of the reasons I think we need a wider dog walk for large breed dogs I agree!! Wider walks would be great.
Tiggy's big fluffy feet look scary on the walk. |
| Chewie did the A frame last week in class. He had seen it just once before - a year ago- at a seminar. He did it full height and we most definitely took a good run at it. He was a bit hesitant at 1st, but I got him really energized and ran along side, and lured a treat. He did it numerous times with great enthusiasm after the 1st time.
He knows "easy" to decelerate and we use "bottom" for the contact. Both help him know that he needs to be ready to stop. Good luck! |
| Thanks.
We were doing full height as well. I was keen to give Tiggy a run up, but the intructor wasnt. I will be more forceful next week and we'll go with a run up. |
| Mim, tell the lazy so-and-sos to lower the a-frame and work your way up You're better off in the long run building confidence that way.
What is your contact performance? (method for making sure she touches at least a paw in the yellow on the descent?) Kristine |
| Kristine, that is a VERY good question, which I've just been pondering myself.
As you know I'm still on the 6 to 12 month waiting list for the "professional" agility training group. 5 months have passed and they havent answered my latest email yet. Never hurts to be pushy.
So this is a sort of amateur agility training. I think we might be learning some bad habits. I know this is a BIG question but here goes! How do I train contact performance???
So far I've just rewarded Tiggy for finishing the equipment properly ie a paw in the yellow. I've asked on the forum before and kind of got the feeling there isnt really a good book on agility but if you know of one to recommend that would be great! Meanwhile I'll keep emailing and dropping in at the "real" agility classes to prove I'm keen. I'd ask there but I'm not a member yet so a bit unfair. |
| Hm. Well, that is an additional challenge now isn't it?
I taught the younger dogs with what is known as the one rear toe on method (shorthand 1rto method - developed by Linda Mechlenburg DVM here in the US). There is also something called two one and two off (2o2o shorthand) - very popular. Otherwise there are running contacts, which it sounds like you're basically doing by default. Belle was trained by this default method (training running contacts to a dog whose stride does not naturally hit the contacts can be very challenging - new methods are constantly being developed and reviewed) Healthwise, for dogs our size (big) and shape (upright, square) running contacts have always seemed to be the preferred method from a health point of view, if not a qualifying point of view Belle had nice contacts in novice and even open until she gained more confidence and picked up speed and by the time she hit excellent we resorted to silly things like Hail Marys!, making offering to the agility gods and sprinkling holy water on her (and a Beardie buddy with a similar issue) - no, I'm not jokng, we did do these things, but in dark humored, frustrated jest - we NQd A LOT on missed contacts, especially the dogwalk.
Why is running thought to be better healthwise for our style dog? The 2o2o tends to have the dog stopping by slamming her shoulders into the ground to come to a stop. With speed and the angle of the descent on a fullheight a-frame, coupled with the weight of our dogs, it becomes pretty obvious why this is probably not ideal. Some trainers do a nice job of teaching the dog to collect and get back on their haunches coming down the a-frame, for instance, in a very controlled, yet still speedy manner. Mostly seen in Border Collies. In our breed, it is possible, but not natural or easy. The 1rto method is an improvement because the dog stops flatter on the ground taking some of the weight off the shoulders. PM me your e-mail address please and I'll send you an article on how to teach it (it can be transitioned into a running contact of sorts with an early release, though I admit Sybil and I are struggling with this part of the concept) I'll also send you Karen Sheedy's e-mail address (if you don't already have it) Her youngest dog has GORGEOUS 2o20 contacts with a very controlled descent. The first thing I would do in your part of the world is talk to her. She's a fabulous trainer. Kristine |
| ditto the above. I got the same article from Kristine and it was really easy to teach.
We still aren't 100% - we have the occassional "ooze" off the contact as he is gaining speed these days. He needs to perfect keeping that one toe on no matter what! Good luck getting in the real class. Luckily I had Kristine and another couple friends as my remote training sounding board until we got far enough to get into the right class! |
| Thanks Kristine.
And for organising to pass on Karen's email etc. |
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