Ear Care
 So I’ll throw my few cents worth in and hope it helps, especially some of the newer members of our OES family who may be wrestling with disjointed or incomplete information. 
The simple fact is that any breed with large and floppy ear flaps that totally cover the ear canal opening will be prone to ear infections and dirt/wax build-ups. If we want Bobtails’ in our lives (and who on earth wouldn't?  ) one of the prices to be paid is ear care. (Much better for us to pay the price in effort than the Bobtail in pain and discomfort.) Of the 4 OES in my life to date only my first, Punk, ever got a "serious" ear infection and that was while he was young and I didn't have a lot of experience or advise regarding ear care. After that he was alright with regular (every third day or so) ear care and attention. Neither Martin nor Virgil have had any ear infections although they do tend to get “messy” ears much more quickly than Punk ever did.  Individual differences are as much a part of this breed as they are with us. 
A brief word of caution though. When cleaning and drying ears you will be prodding your finger(s) quite deeply into your dog's ear canals which while deep are quite narrow, and the skin is very sensitive, thus easily damaged.  Ensure that your fingernails are either cut and filed smooth so that there ear no sharp edges to catch and cut the ear canal skin or for ladies with long fingernails ensure that they are very smoothly filed and be VERY cautious not to scrape or scratch inside the ear. Such cuts and scratches could be a major cause of infection mentioned in several of the previous threads.
In my opinion there are 3 important factors in OES ear hygiene, necessary to provide comfort to the dog and avoid infection and/or "smelly ears". 
First is hair removal. It is essential that the dead and broken hair in the ear canal be plucked regularly to prevent it from totally clogging the ear canal which prevents air circulation and drying of any moisture. Excess hair also causes overheating.  (Try just touching the area around your Bobtail’s ear canals when he/she hasn't had regular ear care for as little as 5 days. It will be noticeably hotter than the ear flap and skin as little as 4 inches away!) For the most part I remove the hair by grasping it between the nail of my first finger and tip of my thumb. Depending on how much hair has grown in a given area you will grab anywhere from 3 – 20 hairs during each “pluck”. It can be hard on your thumb at first  but it will callus up quickly and then you won't notice . Not all the hair can be removed, so don't expect the canal to be totally bald! Some, probably most, hairs are dead or broken and come out readily, some are of “questionable health” and may or may not come while a small amount will be healthy and not come out without excessive grip and plucking force (I estimate 15-20%). This is why I predominantly discourage the use of haemostats (forceps) or tweezers. I do have them and have used them on rare occasions, especially for the deeper areas I can’t reach well because of the size of my fingers. But using these tools does bother my boys even though I can only grasp a few hairs with them compared to 10-20 when done manually. Clearly the extra grip afforded by mechanical tools results in the plucking of healthy hair that was not ready to come out, thus hurting them . It is also this tearing out of healthy hair which leaves the follicle site exposed and, I believe, it is this “injury” in addition to scratches cautioned above which often leads to the ear infection some people are experiencing.
It is often difficult to get a good grip on the ear hair due to wax and oil build-up in the canal and on the hair itself. There are several solutions available, my choice is the use of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Using the 99% alcohol wet a cotton puff ( don’t use the 70-80% solutions as much of the remaining 20-30% is oil which is what we are trying to avoid). The puff should be thoroughly wet but not dripping. “Swish” the wetted cotton ball around the ear canal ensuring that it contacts all the hair and ear canal surfaces. The alcohol both dries the wax/oil on the hairs and helps loosen any dried deposits from the skin surface. Of course the alcohol can dry the skin so use a minimal amount. It is always better to use too little the first time and then go back for a second, or even third, “swish” when you start loosing grip again.
The other choice is one of the ear drying powders. There are quite a number of brands available and all work reasonably well. Check your local stores for what is available and once you have found one that works without any side effects settle on it. ( Indeed try to keep using the same brand of grooming tools, powders etc., as much as possible to avoid allergic reactions to new items.) Many have used these powders to the same effect as I use alcohol. My personal objection to the powders is that they are more difficult to distribute evenly around the ear canal and they do not loosen dried dirt/wax deposits from the skin. Try both once if you wish and make your own choice on what works for you and your dog.
The second factor in ear care is cleaning. With most of the hair removed effective cleaning is now, and only now, a possibility. Cleaning requires swabbing very deep into the ear canal with Q'Tips. PLEASE HAVE A VET OR PROFESSIONAL GROOMER SHOW YOU AND HELP THE FIRST TIME OR TWO. YOU CAN EASILY RUPTURE AN EARDRUM IF YOU PROD ABOUT TO VIGOUROUSLY OR DEEPLY. (Sorry about shouting but this is just so darned important. ) Depending on how dirty the ear is you may need to use an ointment or bit more alcohol to loosen and remove waxy-dirt deposits from the ear canal surfaces. Be thorough with this and for the most part your son/daughter won't mind this as long as you start early in their lives and develop a good technique. (Punk, and now Martin and Virgil often make little contented grunting noises when I clean their ears. All are just soooo utterly fantastic on the grooming table for any care I need to give them. Hey, it’s attention from their Daddy and almost any attention and approval from Dad (the pack leader) is what they seek the most.) Once the dirt/debris has been loosened and mostly removed use giant cotton puffs to "sweep" the ear clean removing anything that didn't come out on the Q'Tips. (I always found that the regular size ones were too small to cover my fingertip and didn't provide enough padding to protect the skin from my nail, nor did they effectively collect the loosened dirt. Note that I say Q'Tips and cotton puffs plural: don't skimp with the "grooming supplies", change them as they get dirty – no point regrinding the dirt back into your Bobtails’ ear. To allow the Q'Tips and swabs to get deep into the ear you will have to lift the flap up parallel to the ear canal and pull gently with you "weak" had while swabbing with the strong hand. (I'm right handed so I would raise the ear flap with my left-weak- hand while swabbing with the right-strong hand.) Your groomer or vet should be able to show you how to do this.
Lastly but equally important is drying the ear. Bobtail ears are naturally warm humid places prone to nasties !! If they are not well dried you are simply NOT going to win this battle!! When the cotton puffs used to "sweep" the ear canal come out clean take a fresh one and dab some isopropyl alcohol onto it. I usually cover the bottle opening with the swab and invert it completely until the swab is wet but not saturated and dripping. Too little won't dry and cool the ear, to much will irritate the skin. Several "wetted" swabs should be followed up by a few final dry ones to remove any excess alcohol. If you are particularly concerned about the alcohol drying out the skin there are ear drops readily available which will do a similarly good same job. I have never had any significant problem with the skin being dried and on there rare occasion that it has happened at all I have treated the dry skin with tiny amounts of a quality skin conditioner for a few days.
At this point the ear should be free of loose and dead hair, clean and dry.  I however also added one more step  of treating the ear canal with an antibiotic ointment. Long ago our then vet recommended and sold "panalog". If you do this squeeze a very small amount (.1-.2 mls) as deeply into the ear as the applicator tip will allow. Then place the ear flap into its natural position and "massage" the ear to distribute the ointment in a smooth even coating. Open the ear flap again to give the ear canal a bit of air for a few minutes until the ointment has completely dried. If the ointment hasn't dried within 4 to 5 minutes you have used too much, adjust your application next time.
I recommend cleaning and drying every three days, no more than 4. In particularly rainy periods or hot and humid climates or if you are experiencing build-ups and smelly ears you might need to increase to every two days or even daily. (Bobtail ears always have some odour but you shouldn't notice it if the ear flaps are down or from more than a few feet when open.) Plucking the hair, depending on the specific dog, is pretty much a weekly task, just maybe 10 days but never more. (Note that once you have done the initial plucking and have the ear canals in a good hair-reduced and cleaned condition plucking at every 7-10 days is going to be a much less intense and laborious task. )
Some care of the underside of the ear flap is also required, and clipping all the hair off is not a very good solution. The stubble is really irritating and causes the dog to shake excessively, sometimes causing hematomas . Most of the loose hair is removed by grooming with a good pinbrush and either a high quality slicker or fine comb. (I know some won’t use slickers on OES but with care, judicious use and confidence in your technique they can be a good tool.) However there is usually an area in the middle 1/3 the flap extending from the opening down to about 1/2 the flap length that needs some plucking. Ensure that the hair on the underside of the flap is clean, dry and well groomed. Then just as you did in the ear canal pluck the hair on the underside of the ear flap. Be slow (only a few hairs at a time) and start in the middle, right at the ear canal opening, carefully extending the plucked area. Each dog will be different. You should never have to apply more force than you did in the ear canal. If that level of tug won't remove the hair it doesn't need removing. While you are at it pluck the hair from the side of the head immediately below the ear canal opening. This plucking will create a little crescent of bald skin under the ear opening about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch wide the length of the ear canal opening. It will be invisible when the flap is down but adds a lot to ear hygiene.
The other thing I have done, but is a bit touchy with many dogs  is to syringe the ears while bathing them. This can be done with a handheld shower head or with a medical syringe.(You will need one of at least 2 oz capacity. Larger ones are better, especially with larger tip openings. Not meaning to be rude but vaginal syringes purchased at a pharmacy are actually ideal. The large opening keeps the stream velocity down a bit which is less upsetting to the dogs and the volume provides a good cleaning in as little as 10 flushes.) But not many dogs will accept this unless you start them young and are persistent, but loving, for the first few times. And be very careful of the water temperature you use. If the temperature isn't absolutely perfect for flushing your own ears, DON'T use it in a Bobtail’s ears. Of course make absolutely sure that the ear is properly dried out as well, even while still in the bath get as much water out right away, either by letting the dog shake or “swabbing” the ear with a dry facecloth to sponge out the water. This is of course followed by a complete cleaning as described above as soon as the dog is dried.
Long winded as this explanation may be, actually cleaning the ears will be much faster than reading it (10-12 minutes each for a complete ear cleaning including plucking, 4 minutes, maybe 5 minutes max, on each ear for cleaning and drying only when you become proficient). I developed and used this technique on Punk for more than 10 of his 11 1/2 years of life and also cared for my parent's Afghan Hounds' ears the exact same way with excellent results. Now Martin, Virgil, Farouk and Brigham are receiving the same care and are predominantly free of ear problems. Thanks for reading and I hope it helps some of you experiencing problems. Feel free to e-mail me direct or through the forum for further commentary or explanation.
Carl |
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| Carl,
Your posts are better than OES Books I've read - you should write a Care & Maintenance of OES Book!!!! Thank you! Kristen |
| Carl,
How did you know that this issue has been on my mind lately? Kudos! Jil |
floofdog wrote: Carl, That's funny!
How did you know that this issue has been on my mind lately? Kudos! I was rubbing Mulligan's ears after he was scratching at one and yelped when Carl's post appeared, as if on cue. LOL |
| There needs to be an emoticon that is BOWING! Thank you, Carl. It was very nice to see a post this well informed. I will have to let you know if Jack and Annabelle are as thrilled with the post as I am after they get an ear session tonight. I will let you all know how they like it.
Thanks again. Stormi and co. |
| All,
When I got home last night Michele noted a few minor omissions in my original post  , thanks wifey . It is always good to get an independant review to make sure things aren't missed and that I "stay honest" by not making assumptions , so .....
Firstly when cleaning the ear, especially with the Q-Tips your dog is going to shake his/her head because of how peculiar, and occassionally irritating the cleaning can feel . As such don't hold any of the cleaning materials, (puffs, Q'Tips) or the dog's ear very tightly. As soon as the dog begins to shake or respond with head movements release everything, re-settle him/her after the shake and pick-up from where you were. To try and hold the dog still will frustrate him/her making them less receptive to an already invassive procedure  and could cause muscle strain injuries in the neck ad shoulder as they stuggle or ear canal/ear drum injuries from the Q'Tip or your fingers impacting shaking the ear canal, flap or possibly the eardrum itself .
Second after plucking and cleaning your dog's ears are going to feel "different" to him/her. They will naturally shake and "paw" at their ears more than usual for the remainder of the day and possibly the next day as well. As long as there are no scratches/cuts to the ear canal skin and the ear flap skin has not been dried or irritated by alcohol this does not indicate a problem . Keep an eye on their behavoiur and massage the ears if they seem especially distressed, perhaps putting in an ear drop or two to help the ear "re-settle" it's wax equilibrium.
Don't hesitate to e-mail for more information or details. Carl |
| Wow. 'nough said. |
| Carl, I found using an ear powder first helped immensely. It made it so much easier to grasp a fingerful of hair and pluck, and with the powder it didn't seem to irritate the dog as much either.
Do you ever use ear powders? Should I be using them? |
| WillowSprite,
Ear powders work very well for many many people and if they are what works for you and Dancer then by all means continue their use. As I tried to point out I have tried ear powders a few times but for -ME- they are less effective and less easy to distribute evenly throughout the ear than the alcohol method I have described. Somewhere along the line during cleaning the ear after plucking is complete you will need to loosen dried wax/dirt from the ear canal skin. I doubt that powder is very effective at that. Carl |
| I usually use powder to pluck the ears, and then alcohol to clean the wax.... I just really like the grip the powder allows me to get, even if it is a little redundant to use both...lol... |
| Carl- I'm gathering info at this point (no puppy yet). Are electrical hair trimmers ( the human ear and nose ones come to mind) appropriate to use for trimming inner ear hair?
Karen |
| Karen,
It is always good to hear of someone researching this breed properly before "jumping in" . If you have "drilled down" to ear care you will have a great headstart when your Bobtail baby finally arrives at home. 
I would very strongly caution AGAINST using any kind of clipper in the ear canal or even on the inside of the ear flap leather. Any clipper/trimmer is going to leave a small but definite amount of hair stubble which will be very irritating to your dog. To alleviate this irritation the dog will rub and shake his/her ear, often vigorously. All too often this sort of shaking and rubbing results in a hematoma on the ear flap leather which almost always requires minor surgery to correct. Indeed your dog is going to shake and rub his/her ears to a certain amount even for the plucking and cleaning as I have described in this thread. Minimizing the irritation is essential to minimize the upset felt by the dog.
Human ear/nose hair trimmers are predominantly designed for relatively short hair (certainly much shorter than our Bobtails get in their ear canals) and for hair which is relatively "sparse" and hence can be cut one strand at a time. In the case of a dog's ear canal the hair is quite long and the wax causes it to "clump" together. As a result it is likely that the trimmers will "clog" and they will "tear" the hair out in an uncontrolled manner. Because of the amount of hair to be trimmed there is also a good chance that the trimmers will overheat which could lead to burning the ear canal skin.
The other serious risk in using trimmers is that the very finest hair clippings will not be gathered up by the trimmer and end up migrating down the ear canal to rest in a deep fold or even on the eardrum itself. This would be especially irritating, be a site for wax and dirt build-up and could cause an infection deep in ear canal or possibly inner ear itself. Sometimes the old manual ways are the best, and in my opinion, only way to the desired end.
While I do use electric tools when they are appropriate I have never used them to accomplish ease and speed of care over quality of care. My thoughts for you to review Thanks and Cheers Carl |
| Thanks Carl- that makes a lot of sense!
Karen |
| Just wanted to add that my vet has recommended a mixture of white vinegar and alcohol (half and half) to swab the ears out with several times a week to aid in the prevention of ear infections. It has helped my dog's ears in the past and I use it to clean Blue Star's ears. I have used the hemostats to pluck ear hair but Carl's wonderful post has enlightened me in this matter and I will be hand plucking from now on! (I will also be keeping this in mind when I work on different breeds at work.)
May |
| Carl,
You mention in your original post about using isopropyl alcohol. Quote: my choice is the use of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Using the 99% alcohol wet a cotton puff ( don’t use the 70-80% solutions as much of the remaining 20-30% is oil which is what we are trying to avoid).
My question is: Where do you find this percentage of Isopropyl Alcohol? I have looked and can not find it. I need to clean Tylers ears and was going to do it over the holidays, but couldn't find all that I needed. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks Leslie |
| I could only find 91% so I've got the same question. I did buy it and used it sparingly.
Jil |
| Where did you even find 91%? I can only find the 70 to 80% in the stores near me. Did you have to ask someone for it? |
| I've only ever purchased the 70% isopropyl alcohol, that's what is used in hospitals as well. The kind I buy has no other ingredients in it... |
| I found the 91% at CVS (maybe it was Walgreen's?) and it was on the shelf with the others.
Yeah, it was CVS. I'm in the Detroit area. |
| I found a higher concentration in a product designed to treat swimmer's ear. It is more expensive naturally. It is available without perscription and I found it in the ear section of the drug store. Also, sometimes you can a higher concentration from the pharmacist, ask at the counter. |
| All,
I had no idea getting 99% Isoproply Alcohol would be so difficult for so many of you. We get it at Wallyworld (WalMart). As a matter of fact it is their own "equate" brand. I have also seen it in numerous drug stores/pharmacies here in Canada. Sorry it took so long to reply, busy of late but I am now settling back into a more "normal" daily routine with our gang after the holidays. Thanks and Cheers Carl |
| I have used the powder to help grip the hair and I have also used the alcohol to clean the ears. Is that a bad thing to use both. It seems that the powdder helps me during the times that I pluck. I like to use the alcohol when Rheba comes around water because of the drying effect. Am I doing the right or wrong thing? |
ARTabone wrote: I have used the powder to help grip the hair and I have also used the alcohol to clean the ears. Is that a bad thing to use both. It seems that the powdder helps me during the times that I pluck. I like to use the alcohol when Rheba comes around water because of the drying effect. Am I doing the right or wrong thing?
ARTabone, Both powder and alcohol will serve to dry the wax in the ear hair to help you get a better grip for plucking. Use what works best for you and your dog. I always use alcohol but others have equally good success with powder so for help getting grip to pluck the hair it is a personal choice. Cleaning however is a different issue. Alcohol is able to soften and lift the dried wax/dirt away from the ear canal skin which powder simply cannot do. Alcohol is also a good swabing agent to dislodge dirt that resists rubbing with a dry puff and can serve to cool the ear canal skin at the same time, again something that powder cannot do. But of course you need to limit how much "raw" alcohol comes into direct contact with skin because of it's potential to dry the skin by removing all the natural oils, a small amount of which is needed to keep the skin healthy and supple. I would also avoid using alcohol to dry the ear out after water exposure. I find the best way to clear out water trapped in the ear canal is to swab it dry, either with a soft dry cotton cloth or a number of giant cotton puffs (one at a time until the ear is properly dry). While alcohol will enhance water evaporation it isn't going to be as effective as quickly as you need when drying the ear canal. Once the ear canal is dry, (free of water) clean and plucked, remember to add some ear powder or antibiotic ointment to help guard against infection. Hope this helps, as ever don't hesitate to ask if I am unclear or you have further questions or concens. Thanks and Cheers Carl |
| Oh no..I have such a weird gag reflex and the inside of the dogs ears is setting this off. I get queasy about a lot of weird things. I am not going to be able to do any work myslef. I don't think. I started gagging when reading. Maybe i could do plucking..I'll try...I didn't notice much hair but I'm going to go examine more closely. And we can't go to a groomer until Oct. bc of medical problems...I don't know what I'm going ot do. I smell a stinky odor. Dog smell x3. |
| If the dog's ear is quite bad then I could understand how the good ole gag reflex could cause some problems. If you get someone to clean up your dogs ears, the maitnence is a lot better than the initial clean (if they are stinky and messy)...If they aren't so stinky and messy and it is still bothering your gag reflex...ignore everything I just wrote. oops! haha |
| Thanks you thank you. I am new to OES, but not new to dogs. However, I worried about the grooming and to date I am managing with assistance from reading posts. Did our first real day of beauty and she loved it. Now to have someone show me how to care for Abbeys ears. Thanks for the info. Tal |
| Great posts on grooming Carl! Thank you!!
I would just like to add my 2 cents, from experiences with 2 OES and one Springer Spaniel. Regarding the use of powders... Be VERY careful to NOT get powder into the canal. If it mixes with the ear wax, it can cause more problems than the wax alone (calcification being the worst). It should only be used on the flappy surface of the ear and only sparingly. My vet actually recommended using just plain old Gold Bond Medicated Powder. Sprinkle it into your hand or a cosmetic powder puff and then rub the surface of the ear, which will prevent any accidental over-spill into the ear. Regarding hair removal... For hair growing out of the canal, a hemostat will work much better than fingers. Mine is 6.5" long with a curved clamp end. Just grab a small clump of hair, lock the handle of the instrument, wrap the hair around the clamp several times and gently pull. I asked my vet to show me how to do it the first time so I was not hurting the ear. I also use a regular disposable Bic for thinning hair on the inside of the flap when necessary. I have found that a little less on the flap, helps the air circulate too. Happy Grooming!! Amy |
| You can get a good hemostat here...They are only 6 or 7 bucks...
http://www.scissorsales.com/hemostat.html |
| so is the hemostat a better option than tweezers? we dont have a dog yet, but i'm trying to read up on everything to make sure we're prepared before we jump in!
oh and the ear cleaning is totally freaking me out, i'm worried i might not do it right, so i'm deff going to have the vet or my friends mom (shes a groomer) show me how to do it before i attempt! |
| I definitely like the hemostat better for gripping hair and it seems to be more comfortable for the dog. |
| If you have a dog that is prone to moving (Archie AKA Mr FidgetBum) I would stick to solely using your fingers, you could seriously inflict some serious pain/damage with tools of any kind. |
| my oes is only 10 weeks old and deaf. he loves being groomed and enjoys having his feet held. so, how old should he be for his first plucking session? i can start getting him used to me around his ears, but how long does it take for the hairs to grow? will they be ready soon? |
charlysez wrote: my oes is only 10 weeks old and deaf. he loves being groomed and enjoys having his feet held. so, how old should he be for his first plucking session? i can start getting him used to me around his ears, but how long does it take for the hairs to grow? will they be ready soon?
Should be soon. We start plucking ears before they go to their homes. |
Quote: We start plucking ears before they go to their homes.
That is soo good because it's going to be a life-long necessity. We start within days of a puppy's arrival but I'm more chicken about it
I flip an ear, pluck only a few hairs in one quick pull, quickly pop a treat in his/her mouth, then go back to play-grooming. I do the same with the other ear, then that's it for the day. I do this the next day and the next. It's a drawn out affair at first but in a few weeks a lot can be accomplished. While it's not really pleasant, it's tolerable especially if there's a reward. As the pup becomes used to the process, you can then begin removing more hair each time with each pluck and add more plucks to the session. I don't want ear plucking to become a wrestling match that the dog dreads so I usually have them preoccupied with a special toy or chew. I've found OESs are different. Some are much hairier and need more frequent plucking. I have two that don't require it very often. Congratulations on your new puppy! |
| cappi had his first ear cleaning session yesterday. i managed to get some isopropyl wipes from boots chemist, which i reasoned would do the same job as liquid and cotton. it worked a treat, the hairs came away easily, made him squirm a bit though. will the wax come loose now on its own further down, having used the wipes to dry it a bit?
i was too nervous to use q tips inside the ear, i managed to put a twisted paper towel in his ear and it came away dirty. pleased to say his ears are cool as before this they were warm. phew! hope it got there in time. |
| Lesley 3 words for you
Thornit ear powder . Works wonders and makes ear cleaning and plucking so easy.It also helps to break wax up and helps to stop the hot ears. |
| you are fast becoming our fairy godmother! thank you, i will go to the big shops at the weekend. |
| Thank you for the ear cleaning post,Carl. You have been such a wealth of knowledge on the oes.org for quite some time. Cheers, Robin |
| Carl, I love reading all of your post..... your knowledge is wonderful, and you are great with your words. When I finish cleaning my dogs ears I apply a couple of drops of Zymox, just to prevent anything bad. Also it is great for yeast infections which OES tend to get in their ears due to the warmth and dampness. Do you know anything about this if so is it ok to use it. |
Sheepdog Lover wrote: Carl, I love reading all of your post..... your knowledge is wonderful, and you are great with your words. When I finish cleaning my dogs ears I apply a couple of drops of Zymox, just to prevent anything bad. Also it is great for yeast infections which OES tend to get in their ears due to the warmth and dampness. Do you know anything about this if so is it ok to use it. Sheepdog Lover, Thank you for your kind words. I'm glad to be of help whenever possible. I'm not familiar with the Zymex product and certainly have not used it myself so I did a quick internet search on it. From what I have found it appears to be a good product that should be a significant benefit in ear care and health. The only caution I would offer is that since this is a cortizone based medication you should be quite diligent in not exceeding the recommended dosage instructions on the label. It would also be prudent to solicit the opinion of your veterinarian as to dosage and frequency of use when you next visit for a routine check-up/shots/etc.. Good luck with your Bobtail. As ever if you have further questions don't hesitate to ask, either in open forum or by PM. Thanks and Cheers Carl |
Carl: I keep Zymox on hand. My vet gave it to me a few years ago to try on my dogs when needed to see how it worked. He does this on occasion with new products so he can test them out for his clients. He says if something works on my hairy dogs it will work on anything  Generally we don't have ear problems very often.  But on the occasions I have used it, it is a miracle worker.  Instructions say to use for 10 days in a row & then give several days break & if the problem is still there to try it again for 1 week. Quite frankly, I have never needed to use it any longer than 4 days. The key is to use it & only it. No other cleaning solutions etc. when using it. What I would do is clean the ear canal as well as possible with q-tips & then add a couple of drops of Zymox & then massage the ear. I wouldn't bother to clean the ear canal everyday with the q-tip unless it is really funky. Like I said, I have never had to use it for more than 4 days. But I do check my dog's ears just about everyday so if something starts up in there, I am catching it pretty early on. You would have to get it from a vet. Or perhaps a veterinary medical supply store. It's not cheap but it lasts a long time as you only use a couple of drops. |
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