|I found this person's link through the OES-List for helping with stain removal.
Under tips she has a page of excellent ideas for caring for your sheepies. For
the stain removal here are a few:
Milk of Magnesia w/ Hydrogen peroxide
Metal X shampoo (it's a people shampoo, try beauty supply stores)
Massengil powdered douche....applied dry and brushed out
Ivory dish soap, glycerin and white vinegar.
I haven't tried any of these yet but I might try a couple to see if they work.
I have tried a few things for beard whitening and the best thing is just making sure the water is clean. It means cleaning out the bowl of all the dirt particles and refilling several times a day. It keeps the beard mostly white that way, until they go out to eat dirt. LOL
I also spot clean the beard and paws on several occasions in between bath times. Stormi and co.
|Yes I find simply changing the water several times a day works best. Sky is developing a yellow head though because of all the Dancer drool! LOL|
|I've read another post about changing the water, I think it was one of yours, Stormi. I've been looking at water dispeners which have a fresh flow of filtered water constantly, and I may try one of those. Have to get through the beginning of school firs! (registration fees, clothes, supplies, ughhh!)|
|those are good! my husband bought one for our cats, and now Mopsey likes it too. All the large yuk stays at the bottom, though.|
|the majority of the "tea stained" look of most OES's is not from food particles or dirt floating around on their chin, it is from the enzymes in their Saliva. Some sheepdogs don't stain much at all and others have pretty brown chins. It is not a fault in the standard of the breed just one of those things. Fresh water should be available at all times but it is really not going to change much of your dog's DNA makeup if its chin is browning.|
|I knew that about the enzymes in their saliva. Lizzie has been licking her sides where the dry skin was irritating, and it has turned her gray fur a brownish color in spots. According to her groomer, we'll just have to wait until next spring when she's cut back again...|
|I wouldn't use a chemical like peroxide or bleach on a dog's coat. Both are very drying and makes the fur/hair more porous, which in turn makes the fur/hair absorb the saliva and/or dirt, food, grass, etc.
The best thing to do is as Stormi said -- change the water FREQUENTLY. This is the best preventative.
Also bathe your Sheepie in a quality shampoo. One can buy professional grooming supplies on-line for approx. 14.00 per gallon and can be purchased in smaller sizes. Ounce per ounce it is cheaper than pet store shampoos and/or human shampoos!
Here are some good professional shampoos, and most are available at
- Top Performance (be sure to dilute correctly)
- Mr. Christal's (can be oily is used improperly)
- BioGroom (can by drying, be advised)
- Nova Pearls (actually available at Petco - but still a nice shampoo)
- Bark 2 Basics
- Nature's Specialties (very expensive, but amazing shampoo)
~ Nature's Choice (slicker and conditioner - conditioner takes a while to rinse)
- Groomer's Edge
- Cindra (can also be drying if diluted improperly)
Here are some websites:
http://www.naturespecialties.com/Produc ... ampoo.html
|I wasn't planning on using the peroxide. It just seemed a wierd thing to use, especially on a dog. I don't think Lizzie would sit still long enough for me to try it anyway! LOL! I think we'll just go the route of freshwater to drink and cornstarch brushed in.|
|jack's wetbeard seems to turn into wetbod.
his whole body browns so quickly. but its cute. so i let him slide as long as he doesn't hop into my bed like that.
|I believe enzymes in the saliva are the culprit to yellow/brown beards. Some dogs have less than others and I assume that clean water in the pups bowl helps wash the saliva out of the beard as they drink. Also, I believe some foods stain more than others. I trained my pup to allow me to wash her face and bum while laying on her side on the table as a weekly maintenance. We do this routine each time I brush her. I allow her muzzle or bum to extend over the edge of the table an inch or so. Then I put a large plastic bowl in my tall kitchen trash can to catch the dirty water and place it next to the table under the end I am working on. I put lukewarm water in 3 thin necked bottles, the bottle from a spray bottle works well, and I work on the side of her muzzle facing the floor or her bum. I do the side of her muzzle facing down so the water does not flow into her nose. I use a little whitening shampoo and it rinses out before I have used all three bottles of water. This works so much better than my last solution of just before bed every night spraying her muzzle lightly with water and then drying it with a towel. Not nearly thorough enough.|
|Just popping by to see if anyone has any further suggestions on the brown beard dilemma. Took my son's female pup to be groomed yesterday. She looks beautiful but beard is still brown.
Have tried peroxide ( a little) and white vinegar ( a little). Little change, if any. I worry about her puppy skin and would hate to irritate it. She is sooooo sweet .
|I would not want chemicals that close to my babys mouth and nose. I use baby wipes to get rid of some of the stain. Beyond that .......... it is just who he is. LOL|
|I remember someone when I was new to the forum mentioning "the Febreeze Trick" - the thought of that really upset me......|
|Whats the frebreeze trick?|
|Febreeze is a houshold cleaning spray used to remove stains & odours - the poster was recommending it's use on sheepies.....|
Peroxide can be a useful tool when used properly in conjunction with good grooming practises. As many have indicated there is a valid concern with the potential for the peroxide to dry both the dog's skin and hair at the site of application, especially the stronger 10% solution (usually available at good pharmacies) which I think is necessary to accomplish a noticable level of cleansing.
The cleansing action of peroxide is a strong oxidation reaction with organic and, to some extent inorganic, material/debris at the treated site. This is why the skin can be severely dried and even lightly burned if sufficient peroxide is used to saturate the hair and get down to the skin. The hair can be dried with extended exposure or repeated use without adequate conditioning.
I use peroxide to clean our boy's beards either in the bath after shampooing, hence before conditioning, or during grooming sessions AFTER the area has been groomed and the vast majority of food debris has been brushed/combed out. My technique is to apply the 10% solution with a small sprayer bottle while parting the hair. This way I am able to get the peroxide into the deeper areas of stain but don't have to saturate the hair so much that the peroxide gets down into the skin itself. It is also necessary to give the peroxide time to work and monitor how warm the area is getting rather than just indiscrimanately spraying the peroxide and thinking it is not working. This is an extremely aggressive chemical reaction with a significant "activation energy" so while it takes a while to get going, once it does start it can get quite warm! Once the peroxide has done it's work (give it about 10-15 minutes) remember to rince the treated area and dry thoroughly. Not only will the stain be reduced, in the case of the beard the treated area will be much less odourous.
I have a high regard for the efficacy of peroxide and recommend its use but do extend these words of caution.
With regards to Febreeze I wouldn't go there unless there is a very critical need to "knock down" the odour of a particularly unclean and smelly dog. I had to do this once on a rescue while transporting him. I was literally gagging in the van as I drove this poor boy to Colorado rescue because he had been found stray in a local orchard and had not received any grooming at the shelter where he was taken. I used Febreeze very lightly on his surface hair only repeating the application a couple of times during a 2 hour trip.
Hope this helps,
|I'm reviving this thread because Clyde has some serious drool stains and NOTHING seems to be able to get them out. I've tried all the other suggestions offered in the other threads and I'm now at the last resort. It's not even so much the color, but his beard stinks something evil and I would think peroxide might kill some of that bacteria as well. He also drools on his forepaws as he sleeps and I wanted to clean that up too.
A few questions: Who has tried this? Is the peroxide put on wet or dry hair? Are there any other tips or tricks involving the peroxide I should know about?
| (PLS EXCUSE 'ALL CAPS'. I HAVE ARTHRITIS IN BOTH WRISTS AND IT'S EASIER FOR ME NOT TO USE THE SHIFT KEYS).|
I HAVE A LITTLE WHITE DOG WHOSE BEARD AND FEET ARE NOW AN APRICOT/BROWN COLOR. THIS IS FROM LICKING HIS FEET AND DOGGIE DROOL AROUND THE MOUTH. I'VE RECENTLY BEEN TOLD THAT THE STAINS CAN BE TOTALLY ALLEVIATED BY GIVING HIM FILTERED WATER. I JUST PICKED UP A BRITA PITCHER W/FILTER AND WILL SOON SEE (I HOPE) IF IT DOES THE TRICK. BUT IF THERE ACTUALLY IS GOING TO BE A CHANGE, IT MAY NOT BE NOTICABLE UNTIL AFTER THE NEXT VISIT TO HIS BARBER.
IF ANYONE HAS TRIED THIS W/GOOD (OR EVEN NO RESULTS), PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
|Nelson had similar problems with the "stinky beard" and we found that he had a yeast infection on his chin. The vet prescribed a miconizole shampoo that cleared it up after a couple applications. He's actually grown out of the "wet beard" phase now.
My hair-stylist sister and I tried some bleaching peroxide on Maggie's legs once but I got nervous about it and didn't leave it on long enough. As Maggie got older the changes in her body chemistry caused her saliva to turn her hair reddish brown. When she laid her chin on her front legs they got very stained.
The peroxide was applied with a brush onto dry hair being very careful not to get it on her skin. If it would have been left on 10-15 minutes it would have worked. As soon as she laid her chin back on her legs it turned red again so we never tried it again.
I've never heard that filtered water would keep this discoloration from happening. The staining is not usually from the drinking water but from the chemistry of the dog's saliva.
|I tried the Milk of Magnesia + Peroxide on Humphrey tonight, and it worked wonders. Now, I did a bit more of his kneck than his beard (I thought it was a safer spot for a test) so it's not as stained his beard is, but was still fairly yellow. It sounds like it can depend on your dog, but this is working with Humphrey.
The mixture is equal amount of Milk of Magnesia and Hydrogen Peroxide... then add corn starch until you're with a pasty substance - I made mine pretty thick. Apply it, let it dry, and brush it out. It was pretty messy and I got a big spot of fry powder on my couch, but nothing too crazy.
|I use equal parts of peroxide and milk of magnesia, then add corn starch to make a paste, not real thick. Then I put it on the beard, and blow dty completely, brush out . It has worked great for all 3 of mine|
|My friends tried to use Chris Christensen clean start shampoo+ICE ON ICE SPRAY on their boy-bobby,and now bobby got some really big change on his beared!!they are so amazing..|
|Getting into this topic a bit late.
I agree with the enzymes staining. I thought that was the problem with Mickey's face. Niles is always pretty white. Niles always gets dry food with low fat cottage cheese.. just because that's what we always feed our OES. When we got Mick the breeder said dry food with canned meat. We did what she said.... at first. Then decided to just switch him to cottage cheese too. Without even realizing it, his face was white. I tried everything before that, the peroxide combo, tear stain stuff, you name it. Nothing worked.
One other hint I got was to wash his muzzle with Head and Shoulders Dandruff Shampoo. Still do that and he looks so much better.
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